Step 1. Loosen all adjust- ments, remove the old belt, and fit the new one over the pulleys by hand. It sometimes helps to loop the belt over the crank- shaft and generator pulleys first, and to rotate the water pump pulley to ‘wind on’ the belt in the same way as one fits a bicycle chain. Do not use a screwdriver or sharp imple- ment to lever on a tight belt. If it will not fit by hand, the belt is the wrong size, or all the adjustments have not been fully slackened off.

*1. Some cars, like early BL Minis, have a close-f iffing shroud round the cooling fan. On these a small cut-out pro- vides just enough space to thread the belt over the fan, one blade at a time.

2. With split pulley adjustment, first fit the belt with all the spacers between the pulley halves, then if necessary sub- tract spacers until the correct tension on the belt has been obtained.

3. All new belts stretch a little when first used and the tension should be re-checked after 100 miles, or sooner if stated in the handbook.

It is advisable to check the water-cooling system at least twice a year or every 6,000 miles, removing any dead insects or dirt blocking the air flow through the radiatorfins and inspecting hoses for cracks, kinks or perishing— all signal weakness.

Most anti-freeze solutions are good for two years’ use, but before winter starts, the strength of the anti-freeze should be checked—a garage can do this by measuring its specific gravity with a special hydrometer—and fresh anti- freeze added if necessary. When the time comes to change the anti-freeze any deposits in the cooling system should be flushed out after draining.